The Beginning
Thursday, May 26, 2011
I did some last minute planning on Thursday, packed up the car, visited Walgreens for the last few supplies that I needed, made a sandwich for the road, and then, right when I was finally ready to take off, locked my keys in the car. Fortunately I was able to borrow a cell phone to call Dad, and he was able to help me get AAA. An hour later I finally was on the road, and making my way to the White Mountains of New Hampshire.
I arrived at dusk at Tripoli Road, my favorite campground anywhere so far, and had just enough light left to find a great campsite. After using a flashlight to set up an unfamiliar tent in the pitch black of the woods and blowing up an air mattress the old fashioned way, I collapsed into sleep.
New Hampshire's White Mountains
Friday, May 27-Saturday, May 28
Friday, May 27-Saturday, May 28
Triploli road offers serenity unparalleled. My campsite was a hike down from the road, such that at the site I was surrounded by woods on all sides, unable to see anything but nature beyond what I brought with me.
Another short hike down led to the brook that runs by the sites, which creates a peaceful sonic background day and night. Each morning I went down to the stream to sit, meditate a little, dip my toes in the cold cold water, and enjoy how beautiful and solitary it is there.
During my first night, there were thunderstorms, and though the tent kept me dry I had trouble sleeping. When I felt like I should arise I had no idea what time it was--given how tired I was I thought it mid-morning at least, but once I made it up to my car to check it was about 6am. This gave me plenty of time to enjoy the site and get dressed, before heading into the nearby town for breakfast at a local "pancake house."
After walking around the town to pick up some supplies, I stopped by the visitor's center. Beginning with some information that I had printed from online, the ranger gave me a map and advised me about the best hikes to enjoy during my stay (tailored to my preference to walk by waterfalls). I began with one called "The Basin," possibly my favorite hike of the entire trip. The White Mountains have beautiful waterfalls and pools of due to the ancient impact of glaciers moving across the landscape. This hike began with a view of just such a formation, called "The Basin." People say it looks like the footprint of a giant, or a bath suited for a forest nymph.
From there the hike was a walk on the forested mountain that paralleled a rock-filled stream, with a view of the mountains in the distance. It was sunny and warm, and incredibly beautiful to walk along this stunning mountain brook.
I stopped at many points to walk farther out onto the rocks and admire the view.
The hike was punctuated by encountering waterfalls along the brook. I made it to one fairly dramatic one, before the trail became too muddy and I had to turn back.
I climbed on the nearby rocks to for a closer look...
My next hike of the day was a more traditional hike up and down a mountain, recommended for it's multiple vistas.
At this point the weather was feeling a little hot and muggy, so how fortunate that I was right near a lake open to swimming! I hiked around the side and then dipped in --cold but so refreshing. It's too bad that I couldn't take my camera in with me, because it was incredible to be swimming in the middle of a lake surrounded by mountains.
After the swim, I headed over to the flume, which became a major tourist site around the turn of the last century.
I could see why!
Like many places in New England, the Flume had celebrated covered bridges.
And beautiful views!
It also had really interesting trees growing on top of rocks. Apparently these develop when a seed lands on a rock and begins to sprout a tree, that then reaches roots down to the ground.
After the flume, I headed back to my campsite and attempted to make a fire. Unfortunately, this proved extremely difficult, even with lighter fluid and store bought wood (and previous experience making fires), especially once it began to rain. Nevertheless, I persevered and made hot dogs, vegetables in foil, and s'mores!
The next morning I enjoyed the stream by my campsite, stretched a little and communed with the beautiful morning, and then packed things up. On this last day in the White Mountains, I hiked Sabbaday Falls, which was beautiful, but I was running out of camera space. Hopefully this one picture is representative.
On the drive out of the White Mountains, I stopped at a scenic view of Lower Falls, and ended up spending some time walking along the edge of it on the rocks. It looked like a natural-made waterpark that I felt called to swim in, but I wasn't sure how strong the current was so I refrained, vowing to return with company someday so that I could give it a try.
That night I drove for about three and a half hours, stopping at a Staples on the way to get a new camera card. As the sun set and I was rolling along the road, I heard the strangest things come on the radio. Excerpts from Onegin, then a noir-style detective comedy, then some poetry--all on the same station! Finally this delightful mystery was revealed to me as the NPR show "A Prairie Home Companion."
It was pitch black when I reached my campsite, so I got another chance to set up my tent in the dark. However, this time because it was a less rustic campsite I could use the car lights, which made a considerable difference.
Camden, Maine
Sunday, May 29
I woke up very early on my first day in Camden, and the campsite in Camden State Park was cool and calm.
I drove into the town of Camden, Maine, and walked around the docks. They were misty in the early morning, and completely deserted. I felt like I had been transported into another era.
I found an elegant restaurant that was just opening for breakfast, and sat outside on its open porch, right by the docks. The toast that came with my eggs was some of the best bread I have ever tasted, and the restaurant's only other customer felt the same. He ended up coming over to sit with me, and I found out that he was a college-aged dreamer engaged to marry a girl who had gone to sailing high school and was determined to spend five years sailing around the world. They were planning the trip--it seemed like they were actually going to do it! She came in after about an hour with a boat full of tourists, and I wandered back into Camden, mourning a little that I couldn't drop everything and sail around the world.
There was some magic in that morning. It was otherworldly.
I spent some more time looking around the town of Camden, which was the definition of charming.
I then grabbed my bike and took advantage of a pre-mapped scenic bike tour of the city, stopping to appreciate a range of picturesque visions along the way.
Biking back again to the campsite, I stopped to take pictures of this incredible hotel:
To complete my small town Maine experience, I drove back into town for a lobster dinner (delicious, though--I noted with some pride--no better than getting lobster in Boston), and a stroll with ice cream.
Acadia, Maine
Monday, May 30-Wednesday, June 2
